Internet Info 1994 March/Internet Info CD-ROM (Walnut Creek) (March 1994).iso/answers/rec/pet-ferret-faq/general

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From: Pamela Greene <[e-mail]>
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Subject: Ferret FAQ - General Information [monthly posting]
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Summary: Answers to Frequently Asked Questions and general information
         about the care and behavior of pet domestic ferrets.  Should be
         helpful to both prospective and current ferret owners.
Keywords: faq pet ferrets general
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Archive-name: pet-ferret-faq/general
Last-modified: 15 Mar 1994
Version: 1.1.1

FERRET FAQ -- GENERAL INFORMATION
Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene ([e-mail])

This document is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.3 for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short,
you can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

This FAQ is still a work in progress.  Please treat it as such, and
feel free to send corrections, comments, and additions.

I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently
verify, all the information in this file.  I have done my best to
include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee
that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one
of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice
herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For advice
from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

CONTENTS

0. *** About this FAQ ***
   0.1> Goal of this FAQ
   0.2> Credits and editor's notes
   0.3> Copyright and redistribution information

1. *** Introduction to ferrets ***
   1.1> Are ferrets wild animals?  Why are there ferret permits and
        FFZs?
   1.2> Should I get a pet ferret?  What's good and bad about them as
        pets?
   1.3> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies?

2. *** Getting a pet ferret ***
   2.1> Which color is the best?  Male or a female?  What age?
   2.2> How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?
   2.3> Do I need a license or permit?  How do I find out?
   2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret?
   2.5> I just got another ferret.  How can I introduce him/her to my
        old one(s) with the least trouble?
   2.6> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/rabbit/
        etc.) with the least trouble?

3. *** Things you'll need ***
   3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret?
   3.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   3.4> What should I feed my ferret?
   3.5> Should I give him any supplements?
   3.6> What are good treats?
   3.7> What kind of litter should I use?
   3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?
   3.9> Any suggestions on toys?

4. *** Basic ferret care and training ***
   4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home?
   4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?
   4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
        Declawing?
   4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip?
   4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret.  What should I
        be doing?
   4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
   4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?
   4.8> Do ferrets travel well?

5. *** Things ferrets say and do ***
   5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes something?
   5.2> My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?
   5.3> Help!  My ferret is going bald!
   5.4> Is he really just asleep?
   5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean?
   5.6> What games to ferrets like to play?
   5.7> What else should I probably not worry about?

6. *** Problems to watch for ***
   6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?
   6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets?
   6.3> How did I get fleas in my home?  How can I get rid of them?

7. *** Where to get more information ***
   7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area?
   7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list?
   7.3> Is there any other information available on-line?
   7.4> What are some of the books available?

8. *** Revision history of this file ***

-  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -

0. *** About this FAQ ***

0.1> Goal of this FAQ

A number of people have begun work on comprehensive discussions of all
sorts of ferret behavior, medical problems, and advice.  This FAQ is
not intended to replace any of those.  However, there seems to be a
need for an "intro" FAQ which covers many of the basic questions in a
fairly light way.  That is, this is intended to be a FAQ in the purest
sense of the term: a document to answer questions which keep coming up
in the newsgroups and Ferret Mailing List, rather than a comprehensive
guide to ferret ownership. If you're relatively new to ferrets, the
idea is that you'll read this guide (or one like it) first, then go on
to the more detailed guides.

0.2> Credits and editor's notes

Contributions of individual respondents are noted by [begin XX] and
continue until the next [begin XX].  Contributions may have been
edited a little, for spelling or space.  Anything I've inserted will
be in square brackets [], and deletions will be indicated by ellipses
in square brackets [...].

Credits: PG = Pamela Greene ([e-mail])  <-- me
         MW = Marilee Warner ([e-mail])
         AK = Arlyn Kerr ([e-mail])
         RN = Rochelle Newman ([e-mail])
         TC = Todd Cromwell ([e-mail])
         NH = Nancy Hartman ([e-mail])
         SC = Sukie Crandall ([e-mail])
         BW = Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM ([e-mail])
         LM = Linda Mooring ([e-mail])
         JG = [has not yet approved inclusion; may live in a FFZ?]

0.3> Copyright and redistribution information

This document is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene.
It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means,
provided that it is distibuted in its entirety, including this notice,
and that no fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution.
(For-profit dial-up services such as Compuserve and America Online
are granted permission to distribute the file provided that no
additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.)

Those portions of this file written by others, marked with the initials
of their respective authors as described in section 0.2, remain the
property of those individual authors.

-  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -

1. *** Introduction to ferrets ***

1.1> Are ferrets wild animals?  Why are there ferret permits and FFZs?

[begin PG]
Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela putorius furo, are not wild animals.
They were first domesticated by the Egyptians around 3000 B.C.
Ferrets have not been shown to establish in the wild if released; if
yours got free it would likely die of dehydration or starvation within
a few days.  Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to
push over garbage cans and scavenge.

In the past, and some still today, domestic ferrets were used as
hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents.  The ferrets didn't kill
the prey, they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers
(hunters) killed them.  This practice is now illegal in most, if not
all, of the U.S.

Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come
from confusing them with their cousins the North American Black-Footed
Ferrets, Mustela nigripes.  Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild
relatives of the domestic ferret.  They live mainly in Wyoming and
neighboring states, and they are an endangered species due to
outbreaks of canine distemper and recent drastic reductions in the
population of their main prey, prairie dogs.  However, despite very
similar appearances, the BFF is not even likely to be an ancestor of
the domestic ferret, since the latter were first domesticated in Egypt
and only brought to North America comparatively recently.

Some people have also compared, or confused, domestic ferrets with
weasels, which is rather like comparing a pet dog to a wolf; or with
mongooses, which is more like comparing a cat and a squirrel.  Neither
gives much useful information.

States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a
variety of reasons, but by far the most common is the mistaken belief
that they're wild animals and should be treated in the same way as
squirrels or raccoons.  In the face of overwhelming evidence, many of
these areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations.

1.2> Should I get a pet ferret?  What's good and bad about them as
     pets?

[begin TC]
If you love animals, and in particular love little playful critters, a
ferret may be just right.

Ferrets are small, cute quiet, playful pets about midway between dogs
and cats in temperament.  Their latin name is Mustela putorius furo;
they are in the mustelid family, which is the same family as otters,
minks, skunks, wolverines, weasels, etc.  All of the mustelid family
is born with scent glands at the base of the tail.  The ferret is the
only domesticated member of the family.  [...]

Ferrets are often described as kittens that never grow up, because
they are very playful (they leap and dance joyously, with each other
and you).  You can train them to use a litter box.  Some ferrets like
to cuddle with you, and some prefer simply to be near you.  They have
very distinctive personalities.  Ferrets are less destructive than
cats, but love to get in and out of things, so if you keep them loose
in a few rooms of your house, you must set things up so they can not
hurt themselves or your articles (ferretproofing [see question 4.1]).
The only negative thing is they tend to dig at the carpet a bit, but
if they dig in a place you don't want (typically under a door), you
can put down a strip of chicken wire or plastic runner under the door,
and they won't dig much at that.

You should be careful if you have small children, reclining chairs, or
large aggressive pets.  Small children and ferrets are both very
excitable, and the combination might produce a crushed ferret [also
see question 1.3].  Reclining chairs are death on ferrets, who like to
crawl into them and go to sleep.  Large aggressive pets may mistake
ferret play for attack, or squirrel chasing dogs may try to eat your
ferret (or get a nasty surprise when the ferret proves tougher than
expected) [also see question 2.6].

[begin MW]
Ferrets are inquisitive, busy, sneaky, fun to watch/play
with, but also pesky, sometimes nippy [see question 4.4], and into
EVERYTHING.  Whether or not you get a ferret depends on your
ability/desire to deal with some or all of these characteristics
(which will vary from ferret to ferret).

[begin PG]
Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives
as well.  Like cats and dogs, they require a fair amount of care and
training, especially at first (see question 4.4 on nipping, and 4.5 on
litter-pan training).  Most ferrets love to push things off of tables
and shelves, which may be a problem if you like to keep fragile
ornaments on low shelves.  They steal small (and not so small!)
objects and stash them under chairs and behind furniture.  They love
to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be kept out of reach or
they'll swallow bits.  Accessible boxes, bags, and trash cans will be
crawled in, and houseplants within reach are liable to lose all their
dirt to joyful digging.  Finally, many ferrets tend to scratch at the
carpet.  (See question 4.1 on "ferretproofing" your home.)  Naturally,
these traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty
common.  If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect
your property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you.

[begin BW]
It has been my experience that people are far less allergic to ferrets
than other types of small animals.  My wife is highly allergic to
cats, and I am mildly allergic.  Neither of us have ever had trouble
with ferrets, and all of the people I know who are allergic to cats,
birds, or rodents have no problems with ferret.

[begin RN]
[About allergies]  Ferrets are small, and nowhere near as bad as cats
in this regard, but from personal experience, people seem to have more
trouble with ferrets than most other small animals, and even more than
with dogs.

[begin PG]
If you think you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or
friend who has one and check.  I've lost the note, but one person
wrote me to say she (he?) was allergic only to intact males, so you
may want to try contact with females or neutered males as well.  Also
note that some people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often
put on animals, but not to the animals themselves.

Ferrets live 6-10 years, barring accident or serious disease.

1.3> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies?

[begin PG]
Like most people, I've only heard rumors about this -- which doesn't
mean it hasn't happened.  However, plenty of children have been bitten
or attacked by dogs and even cats, yet people don't claim that all
dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets.

I'm sure the number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny
fraction of the number wounded or even killed by dogs.  Ferrets are
unfamiliar to most people, though, so it's easier for them to make
sweeping statements on the basis of a tiny amount of rumored
information.

It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young
children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the
proper way to handle pets.  A living creature needs, and deserves, to
be treated with more care than a toy.  Ferrets in particular love to
pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and
children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous
response from an active ferret than from a typical cat.

[begin BW]
I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more bite
incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of these
species tend to do a lot more damage.  I have seen children require
over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the dog and its
food, but never anything like this with a ferret.  But I've also been
nailed by my share of ferrets too.

Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children under 6
or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting hurt.

-  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -

2. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

2.1> Which color is the best?  Male or a female?  What age?

[begin PG]
As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than
color or gender.  Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon
ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because
it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have
been bred from long-time pet stock.  Basically, though, choose the
color according to your own preference.

There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male
and a female.  Males are generally considerably heavier, around 3-5
pounds (in the US; European ferrets seem to be a bit smaller) compared
to 1-3 pounds for females.  Males' heads are usually wider, which can
give them a more cat-like appearance.  Both genders end up around
15-18 inches long, plus about 6 inches for the tail.  If you're
getting an unneutered ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a
female can be higher than the cost to neuter a male.  (Unless you're
specifically planning to breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your
pets -- see question 4.3.)

There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best
for a new owner.  Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be
litter- and nip- trained (see questions 4.4 and 4.5), but they are
larger and may have acquired bad habits, too.  Kits are very cute, and
their small size and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less
intimidating for a new owner, but they require a little more care and
training and will become very active before too long.  Question 2.4
discusses what to look for in a new kit.

[begin MW]
[Color] doesn't matter, although silver-mitts tend to be a little more
obnoxious (translate: need more attention) than their dark footed
friends.

2.2> How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?

[begin TC]
One is fine (they don't require other ferrets to live, and will bond
with you).  Two is more fun, but a bit more responsibility.  Many
people seem to have five (or more), which may be more fun and
responsibility than you want.  You can always get more if you want
more (and they take to each other just fine, usually).

[begin MW]
If you want the ferret to be YOUR buddy, get one.  If you think you
won't be around enough to keep him company, get two or three--the max
number depends on your level of tolerance and the amount of time you
want to spend cleaning litter pans.  All at once, or one at a time?
Either way, you'll have some fights.  We've done both ways with
relatively little problem.

[begin PG]
I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it
you.  There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time,
too.  I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going
to get several.  There's no problem mixing ferrets of either gender in
any combination.

2.3> Do I need a license or permit?  How do I find out?

[begin PG]
Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated,
require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or
be entirely illegal.  This varies by state, county, and city.  At the
moment, the states of California, Massachusetts, Michigan and Hawaii
are FFZs (ferret-free zones; i.e., places where ferrets are illegal),
as are the District of Columbia, New York City, St. Paul (MN), and
various other towns and counties throughout the U.S.  This list is by
no means complete, so check locally before you get a ferret.

You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife
Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or
veterinarians (recommended in that order).  Note that some pet stores
in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner
store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't
necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws.

2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret?

[begin PG]

Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper
from small breeders (see question 7.1) with kits to sell or from
people who want to sell older ferrets.  In any case, look for bright,
clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers, soft coat, and a curious, alert
attitude.  You can't tell just how a kit's colorings will turn out,
but if you watch and handle a group for a while you can tell a
surprising amount about their personalities.  Young kits will
generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but they'll grow out of
that soon enough.

You can often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter, and
there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the
country as well (see question 7.1).  This may not be the best choice
for a new owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or
behavioral problems.  (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if
you've never dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take
the chance.)

2.5> I just got another ferret.  How can I introduce him/her to my old
     one(s) with the least trouble?

[begin MW]
Limit exposure (give the new guy his own cage) for the first few days
until he/she is accepted.  Also, monitor interaction to prevent
"getting to know you" scuffles and "I'm the head ferret" demonstra-
tions from getting out of hand.

[begin PG]
Ferret play can look pretty rough, especially the kinds of dominance
"arguments" an established ferret is likely to have with a new one.
Generally ferrets won't actually injure each other, but careful
supervision is required at first.  To prevent biting, you can try
spraying Bitter Apple (see question 3.1) on the new ferret.  Keeping
the new ferret separated, but in sight/smell of the old one (e.g., in
a neighboring cage) can help speed familiarity, as can putting the new
pet in the old one's cage or sleeping area while the other one's not
there.  Within a week or two they should get along all right and can
share a cage, food dish, and water bottle.  Of course, extreme cases
do exist, but the longest I've read about new-ferret problems lasting
is three months.

2.6> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/rabbit/
     etc.) with the least trouble?

[begin MW]
For bird, goldfish, rabbit, or rodent type, introduce it as a meal.
Seriously, these animals are the ferret's "natural" prey--you wouldn't
introduce a cat to a mouse and expect them to get along, would you?
As for a dog or cat, introduce the ferret by holding him for the other
to smell, then put him on the floor and CLOSELY monitor interaction.
If your dog tends to chase cats, you may not want to let him play with
your ferret-- it all depends on the personality of your dog.  I would
guess the same would go for cats--I don't have any practical
experience here.

[begin PG]
I don't have any experience in this area, but I've heard that ferrets
get along with cats better if they're introduced when the cat is still
a kitten and is more willing to play.  I've read about ferrets getting
along with some birds, too, but extreme caution is advised.

[begin RN]
Ferrets and iguanas don't get along, either!

-  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -

3. *** Things you'll need ***
3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret?

[begin TC]
You will need:

- ferret food [see question 3.4]
- a food dish (one hard to tip)
- a water dish (one hard to tip) or water bottle [see below]
- a litter box with a large cutout or ramp in front [see below]
- litter (little bb-size clay bits works fine) [see question 3.7]
- bedding (or let them sleep around the house) [see question 3.3]
- a cage (if you elect to keep them in one) [see question 3.2]
- ferret shampoo (or johnson's baby or whatever)
- a collar (toilet ball chain works great) and a little bell (so you
can tell where they are, and so they look like a pet if they get out)
[see question 3.8]
- pet claw clippers [large human-nail clippers work fine too]
- toys (ferretproofed) [see question 3.9]
- a veterinarian.

[begin PG]
Also:
- Linatone or Ferretone, if you can find them (see below and question 3.5)
- Bitter Apple or something similar (see below)
- a box or basket to be a bedroom (see question 3.2)
- a harness and leash (optional) (see below)

Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements that nearly
every ferret loves.  (See question 3.5 about supplements, and 3.6
about treats.)  Bitter Apple is a bad-tasting liquid intended to stop
pets from chewing things.  You may want an H-type harness and a leash,
and you will almost certainly need more than one litter pan,
particularly if you have a large home.

I've found a water bottle to be much more convenient than a water
dish, since ferrets seem to love to play in, and tip over, water
bowls.  Small-size cat litter pans work fine, and for a travel cage or
shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type plastic container intended
for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5 inches).  Make sure the sides
of the pan are at least 4 inches high, since ferrets habitually back
into corners to deposit their wastes and you don't want messes over
the sides of the pan.  However, one side of the pan should be no more
than an inch or two high, so your ferret can get in and out easily.
This is especially true for a young kit.

3.2> Do I need a cage?  What kind?

[begin PG]
Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed
(see question 4.1) room whenever they can't be supervised.  This
drastically reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages (caused by
swallowing indigestible objects; see questions 6.1 and 6.2), injury,
and escape.  However, even if you plan to let your ferrets have the
run of the house at all times, you'll want a cage at first for
training (see questions 4.4 and 4.5), as well as for temporary use.

Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but
I think overall wire-mesh cages are better.  Tanks are easier to
clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your
ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the
room.  Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap.

If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and
you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3
feet and 2 feet high.  A second or third ferret could share that size
cage.  If you'll only be using the cage temporarily, such as when
you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a vacation (see question 4.8),
1 X 2 X 1 feet is sufficient for one or two ferrets, perhaps three.
For trips around town (also see question 4.8), a shoulder or duffel
bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window works well.

In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet.  A
ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even
on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or
basket works well as a bedroom.  Old towels make excellent bedding, as
long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits.  (Also see question
3.3.)

Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you
put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you.  Hammocks made from
old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for
both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys (see
question 3.9) will also be enjoyed.  Just be sure nothing you put in
your ferret's cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being
swallowed, or some other way.  Also be sure your cage door fastens
securely, perhaps even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very
determined and rather intelligent escape artists.

3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

[begin PG]
In short, no.  Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine
shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not
recommended.  Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies
and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example,
rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair amount of dust
and such which isn't very good to breathe.  Why take the chance?

Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary.  Even if you
keep your ferret in a cage when you're not home, as many people do,
you don't need shavings or corncob on the bottom of the cage.  Ferrets
are more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean
towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for
sleeping, and perhaps another towel or a washcloth or two in the cage
as a napping nook and part-time toy.  Sure, some pet stores and
breeders use shavings, but they don't really have the option of using
towels.  We have two ferrets, and a whole basketful of old towels to
put in their cage and favorite napping corners.

3.4> What should I feed my ferret?

[begin PG]
Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams,
Science Diet, or ProPlan Turkey & Barley.  High-quality food may cost
a bit more, but your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier.
The key ingredient is protein, specifically animal protein, since
ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough
sustenance from vegetable proteins.  The food needs to have at least
32% protein, and animal protein should be listed first in the
ingredients.

Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally
contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it
isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth
decay.  However, very young kits and those recovering from
neutering/descenting operations may need their food moistened with
water for a week or two.  Note that moistened food spoils much more
quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.

Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and
cats) need.  Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine,
which (according to the Iams label) is found naturally in poultry;
many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well.

Several kinds of food meant specifically for ferrets also exist.
Probably the most widespread is Purina ferret chow.  Apparently there
was some problem with Purina chow in the past due to a lack of
taurine.  That has most likely been fixed, but I haven't heard
anything more about it.

In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one
brand, is probably a good idea.  Ferrets are known to be finicky
eaters, and if the brand you've been using is suddenly unavailable,
you may run into problems if it's all your pets will recognize as
edible.  We give our pair a mixture of Iams kitten food, Science Diet
Feline Growth, and ProPlan Turkey & Barley, on the theory that if
one lacks something another may have it.  (See questions 3.5 and 3.6
for comments on supplements, fruits, vegetables, and treats.)

Unless your ferret is overweight, you can just keep her bowl full and
let her eat as much as she wants.  We've found that an 8-pound bag of
dry food lasts two ferrets a few months, so the cost of feeding them
even high-quality food is not very great.

[begin BW]
Ferrets do very well on cat food, provided there is adequate taurine
in the ration.  I generally recommend the kitten foods until
approximately 4 years of age, and then the cat foods, which have less
protein for the "golden years."  The effect of high levels of protein
on renal function in older cats with poor kidneys is well documented -
I see similar renal disease in ferrets, so it is my personal theory
(and practice) to try to decrease the levels of protein in my ferret's
diet as they get older.

[begin AK]
We've always used Purina Ferret Chow, recommended by our vet.  It's
not that easy to find, but supposedly is formulated especially for
ferrets (although, for all I know, maybe it's just Purina Cat Chow
with a different name on the box).  We sometimes supplement that with
a concoction called "Ferret Soup," made from chow, raisins, bananas,
hard-boiled egg [yolk only -- see question 3.6] , milk powder, cod-liver
oil, Brewers yeast, veggies, molasses, cottage cheese, and water.  It
sounds like a lot of work, but one blenderful batch lasts one ferret
for 3-4 weeks (in the freezer).

[begin MW]
We swear by Science Diet Feline Growth formula.  We tried a couple of
the grocery store kitten chows but our ferrets pooped more and messier
than with the Science Diet.  We've just recently switched to the
Maintenance formula, since our ferrets are "middle aged" (5 years
old).

[begin JG]
If you intend to switch cat foods from brand A to brand B, buy some of
brand B before you run out of brand A.  Begin mixing B with A a little
at a time until the contents run 50% A and 50% B.  Then begin phasing
out brand A until all they eat is brand B.

3.5> Should I give him any supplements?

[begin PG]
Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements.  They are
also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves
them.  The problem is, both of these contain vitamin A, which can be
very harmful or even fatal in excess.  No more than a few drops of
either Ferretone or Linatone a day is recommended, and it's not
thought to be necessary to give them any at all if you're using a good
food.  Signs of vitamin A overdose include hair loss and a dull coat.

Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat
hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis.
This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that
they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from
fur swallowed during grooming.  Even better, most ferrets seem to
think of this as a wonderful treat, too.  Although they don't have
vitamin A, these laxatives can't be good in excess, so give them only
in small amounts.

3.6> What are good treats?

[begin PG]
Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables such as bananas,
apples, pears, raisins, and green beans.  Although they're not thought
to be necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a
high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt.  Just be
sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat
his regular food to get the required protein.  As with everything, too
much of nearly anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats.

Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be
allowed to have much.  This is especially true for young kits, since
the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily
cause them to become dehydrated.  I'm told that goat's milk, available
in some pet stores, is okay, but I haven't seen any verification of
this.

Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins,
oatmeal, apples, anything with bran in it, and similar foods.

Otherwise, try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small
pieces.  You never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat.
I've heard of ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to
blueberries.

[start SC]
When talking about Duck Soup and similar foods [mixtures of fruits,
grains, and so forth intended to supplement ferret diets as well as
serve as a well-balanced treat; see question 4.4 for an example]
(many have been developed) it pays to specify hard boiled egg yolks
instead of just saying "eggs".  Many carnivores don't digest the
whites well and I have never seen any research showing that ferrets
can so till we know for sure ...

Sugars can interfere with the acquisition of chromium from Brewers
Yeast so it is best to give it at a time when sweets are not given.

[begin RN]
It's best to have several kinds of treats, so that you don't give too
much of any one kind (practically all are bad in large doses).
Ferrets are often hesitant about trying new things, though, so you may
have to coax them a bit -- try putting a bit of Linatone on it the
first time you offer it.

Another treat suggestion -- puffed rice cakes. (taste like the
styrofoam they love so!)

Chocolate: most ferrets LOVE this, but DON'T let them have it.  Most
ferrets can probably handle small doses, but something in chocolate (I
forget what) is fatal to ferrets in large enough doses, and I've heard
that some ferrets are sensitive enough that even a small amount can be
deadly.  Best idea is not to chance it, and try and keep chocolate
away from them.

[begin BW]
The chemicals in chocolate are xanthines, which can have a profound
stimulatory effect.  But small amounts are certainly not deadly.
[Nevertheless,] I also do not recommend this as a treat.

3.7> What kind of litter should I use?

[begin PG]
Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter,
due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners and
dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it.  The litter
can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes
problems.  You may not want to take the chance.

Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for
ferrets.  You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they
all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost
more or less, and so forth.  If your pet is used to one and you
switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new
litter with where he's supposed to go.

3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?

[begin PG]
We've had great success with nylon kitten collars.  We get the 8-inch
size and poke an extra hole through the woven threads, then trim off
the extra inch or so from the end.  You'll want to be sure to leave
enough to go through the ring after the buckle, and enough space for
growth if you're sizing it for a kit.  We found that the loose end
just wouldn't stay in its ring, so our ferret had a tendency to chew
on it and fray the nylon; we solved that problem by melting about a
quarter inch of the flat surface of the collar in addition to the cut
end.  Not only does that keep it from fraying, it makes it a bit
harder so it gets caught in the ring better.

We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt
by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them
loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get
caught.  In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is
to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while
occupying them with Ferretone.

A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on
a kit as young as 9 weeks.  I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped
hook for the tag rather than the split ring, since the rings have a
tendency to loosen.  Twice one of our ferrets got hers caught in a
sweater or blanket -- which both frightened her and unraveled the item
she was frantically rolling in before she pulled out of the collar.
You'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly through the nylon and
put the bell and tag on the same hook, though, since attaching them to
the ring on the collar makes them hang down far enough to drag on the
ground.

Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar, although the
first time we put it on our older pet she spent 15 minutes trying to
convince us she was dying and then the next hour playing with the
jingly toy that followed her wherever she went.

In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets.  Ours
have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives
enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are!

3.9> Any suggestions on toys?

[begin PG]
Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't
have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing (see question 7.2).
Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well if they are not easily
broken or swallowed, as do golf balls or large unshelled nuts (rinsed
to wash off any pesticides).  Cat squeaky toys are good if they're
tough enough to stand up to chewing and easily squeaked.  Catnip won't
hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect them like it does cats.

Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and
some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun
to crawl through or nap in.  Plastic shopping bags are popular, but
watch to be sure your pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic.
Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels made of plastic pipe are popular too.
Unfortunately, digging up houseplants is also enormous fun to a
ferret; see question 4.1 for advice on preventing this.

No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will
almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as
well.  Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or
that might hurt your pet, well out of reach.

[begin RN]
Toys: Only get HARD rubber toys, not soft, spongy rubber -- the latter
can be easily shredded, and the pieces eaten.  For misc. toys, ferrets
often love umbrellas (believe it or not!), cloth belts (from robes --
these are great for tug-of-war!), and tennis balls.

-  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -

4. *** Basic ferret care and training ***

4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home?

[begin PG]
Ferretproofing a home basically involves blocking off all the holes
around your baseboards, removing anything spongy from reach, moving
fragile items out of the way, and making sure your closets and
cabinets close securely.  Ferrets love to worm their way into any
little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some
adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under a
refrigerator, into a wall, or outside.  Crawl around on your stomach
to look for holes near the floor, especially in the kitchen and
laundry area.  Even holes inside cabinets (which are particularly
common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather sloppy) should
be blocked, just in case.  Also watch out for heaters or furnace
ducts.  You can block openings with wood or wire mesh, and at least
one Ferret Mailing List recipient had good luck with aluminum foil,
since most ferrets don't like to chew it.

Many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers.  They can get onto a sofa,
into a trash can, onto the second shelf of a set of bookcases (but not
generally the third), into a bathtub, into the opening on the back of
a stereo speaker, or over the two-foot gate you thought would keep
them in the spare room (a three-foot barrier will probably do the
job).  They can also open cabinets, unzip backpacks, and climb into
some drawers from underneath.

Apart from obvious dangers such as electrical cords (which ferrets
don't, generally, like to chew) and bottles of household cleaners and
chemicals (which they do like to drink), be particularly careful with
sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside
a cushion or mattress), rubber door stoppers, and anything else spongy
or springy.  Ferrets love to chew on that kind of thing, and swallowed
bits can cause intestinal blockages.  (See question 7.2 for symptoms.)
Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on
houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous.

Finally, once your home is done, bear in mind that your couch cushions
and throw rugs may be hiding napping ferrets.  Look before you sit!

[begin RN]
I think the best ferret-proofing tips I've ever gotten are:
- get rocks to cover up the base of your potted plants -- you can
still water them, as water will go between the rocks, but it prevents
ferrets digging.
- if your ferret is really clawing at carpet near a door, get a strip
of plastic carpet-protector (with the little spiky things on the
bottom)
- don't forget to block off the space underneath cabinets (by the toe
kick).  Ferrets love to get underneath there, and you don't always
know what rodent poisons previous owners may have put back there...
and poison for mice and rats is generally not healthy for ferrets,
either!

[begin LM]
I think [digging at the carpet] is only a problem if a ferret owner
has carpeting under doors and if those doors are closed to keep the
ferrets in a defined area. [...] I never had the problem when my
ferrets had the run of the place.  [Unfortunately, closet doors can
also be a problem, but carpet runner works pretty well under them.]

4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?

[begin NH]
IMRAB rabies vaccine - yearly, starting at about 6 months old.
(This is the same rabies vaccine as is used for dogs and cats; your
vet should have it on hand.)

Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine - see below.
(Fervac-D is ferret specific, so many vets may not carry it.  Fromm-D
is commonly used for dogs.)  Kits should be vaccinated at 8 weeks, 11
weeks, and 14 weeks.  But they should have at *least* a series of two
shots, three weeks apart, with the last one when the ferret is older
than 14 weeks.  Then 1 booster shot yearly.

Adult ferrets who have never been vaccinated, the shots are out of
date, or the ferret is of unknown vaccination status, should receive a
series of two [distemper] vaccinations, three weeks apart, then
booster shot yearly.

Note: although rabies is the more publicized of the two, the distemper
shot is MUCH more important for your ferret's health.

Also be advised that most states do not recognize the rabies vaccine
for ferrets.  The "official" studies on shedding time have yet to be
done.  So, even if vaccinated, your ferret will be destroyed if
someone reports to the authorities that they were bitten (scratched,
looked at cross-eyed) by him/her.  BUT, the vaccination will most
likely keep the person from reporting the ferret in the first place.
And, it will protect your ferrets from getting rabies on the chance
that they are bitten by a rabid animal.

[begin BW]
An extra distemper shot, in cases where a vaccination history is not
known, will not hurt a ferret.  Vaccinations is one area in which it
is better to be safe than sorry.

[begin PG]
If you cannot obtain the ferret distemper vaccine, use a KILLED VIRUS
vaccine that is NOT cultured in ferret tissue.

4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
     Declawing?

[begin PG]
In short: Yes, you'll need to spay/neuter.  Descenting is a matter of
opinion, and declawing should NOT be done.

[begin MW]
Unless you plan to breed them, [you need to spay/neuter them].  If
you don't, the male will mark his territory by "sliming" it (rather
gross if he decides your bare feet are his) and the female will go
into heat and stay that way until she is bred or dead (from anemia).
Most pet stores sell ferrets already fixed and descented.

How about descenting?  A good idea, this can be done at the same time
you have your pet fixed.  Ferret "spray" is not nearly as bad as a
skunk but it wouldn't make a good perfume either.  Your ferret will
still have an odor, but descenting will prevent the "clouds" from
rising, should your pet be startled.

Declawing?  Ferrets have dog-type claws.  Have you ever heard of
someone declawing a dog?

[begin BW]
It has been my experience that ferrets will also express their anal
glands when amorous, and they may be amorous around people as well as
other ferrets.

[begin PG]
There's a bit of debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary
or useful, and some belief that it's even harmful.  It's bad for a
ferret's health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may
be somewhat harmful when done at any age.  Some people feel that the
procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who
aren't very frightened smell the same whether or not they've been
descented.  Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent
if it's greatly distressed, but ferrets can't spray their scent as
effectively as a skunk.  Their scent also isn't as bad as a skunk's,
and I'm told it dissipates in 15 minutes or so.

There's no debate whatsoever about neutering pet ferrets. Neutering
drastically reduces the odor of a male and makes him less aggressive
(males in season may kill other ferrets, even females), and spaying
saves a female's life.

Likewise, there's no debate about declawing.  Ferrets can't be
declawed; it would cripple them.

4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip?

[begin PG]
Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip.  A
ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite,
but young ones often don't know how hard they can put their teeth on
you without hurting you.  Ferret play includes mock combat, but
ferrets have tough skin, so when they first begin to play with you
they won't know yours is any different from their littermates'.  A
playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his
teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you
need to discipline him.

[begin AK]
We used a method other people on FML have also advocated: whenever the
ferret bites, you immediately flick its nose pretty hard and shout
"NO!"  Our vet told us to not be timid about this.  [...] The message
is you should do whatever you have to do to drum the lesson in.  When
we were training the ferret, we'd purposely stick our fingers or toes
near her mouth, and flick her nose if she "took the bait."  The good
part was that in about two weeks she was completely trained, and in
the following seven and a half years has never bitten anyone, even
little kids in the park who stupidly stick their fingers near her
mouth.  And we can safely brush her teeth with a cloth-covered finger.

[begin PG]
The "nose flicking" described here was also advocated by the ferret
farm where we got our second kit.  It's the same motion you'd use to
flick a bit of dust off your arm, or perhaps to play marbles (but with
index finger rather than thumb).  Like dogs, ferrets have sensitive
noses, but they're quite sturdy; you're not likely to injure one.  Be
careful to hit the end of the nose, though, since if you swat the top
you'll push the teeth further into your finger or toe.

For people who simply cannot bring themselves to bap their pets, it's
been suggested to carry a bottle of Bitter Apple around and spray it
in the ferret's mouth while he's biting you.  I'm not convinced this
is any better, since Bitter Apple in the eyes is bound to sting.

Positive reinforcement (giving treats) generally works better than negative
reinforcement, and cage time can be an effective punishment when
necessary.

4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret.  What should I be
     doing?

[begin MW]
Limit the ferret's space.  Give him/her and area just big enough for
food, bed, and litterpan.  Normally, the ferret won't mess his/her bed
or eating area.  Once he/she is using that pan regularly, increase the
bed/food area.  As for outside-the-cage time, when you first release
your pet, follow him/her around and as soon as he/she starts backing
into a corner, plop him/her in a litterpan.  Another method is to
carry the ferret directly from cage to litterpan and keep putting
him/her in the pan until the deed is done.  Something else that might
help is putting a little old "deed" in a newly cleaned litter pan so
the ferret is reminded where to go.  Litter pans need to be fairly
clean or the ferret may get finicky.  Ferrets will pick their "potty
corners" so pretty much all you have to do is put litterpans in those
spots and your problem is solved.

[begin JG]
If you are having problems keeping your ferret from going in the
corner, try placing wadded-up blankets or rugs there.  Often the
ferrets will not realize that it is still a corner.

[begin PG]
Positive reinforcement (treats and praise) can be very effective, and
cage time usually works well as a punishment.  "Accident" corners
should be cleaned with bleach or another bad-smelling disinfectant
(don't let your ferret onto it 'till it dries!), specifically so they
don't continue to smell like ferret bathrooms but also as a general
deterrent. For the same reason, you probably shouldn't clean litter
pans with bleach, certainly not the same one you're using as a
deterrent elsewhere.

Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there
is individual variation.  Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their
pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident.  In
general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate, though some ferrets
just don't catch on as well and some do considerably better.  At least
the animals are small, so their accidents are pretty easy to clean up.

Ferrets also tend to lose track of their litter pans when they're
particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new house or
room.

4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?

[begin PG]
Most people like to bathe their ferrets pretty often, since it can
help keep the odor down and they don't seem to mind it.  Frequent
bathing can cause dry skin, though, especially in winter, so be
careful.  Once every week or two should be okay, but switch to less
often if you have problems. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit,
playing and swimming around in the tub.

The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to
check her nails and trim them if necessary.  If you have a helper, you
can have him hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put
Ferretone on one of his fingers.  Scruffing a ferret will generally
make her calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the
Ferretone should keep her occupied.  If you don't have a helper, smear
the ferret's tummy with Ferretone and lie her on your lap, on her
back, her head toward your stomach.  Poke her nose at the Ferretone
and she should be so preoccupied with licking it up that she doesn't
even notice what you're doing to her feet.

In either case, cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it.
Be careful not to nick the line or the toe, since in either case it'll
bleed and your ferret will decide nail clipping is not a good thing.
A handy supply of styptic powder will stop the bleeding; for a nicked
nail-vein, one person suggested rubbing the affected claw in soap to
stop up the blood vessel.

Next you should check your pet's ears.  If they seem unduly dirty,
dampen a cotton swab with hydrogen peroxide and gently clean them.
Once again, you'll find a helper holding the ferret to be
indispensable.  Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than
poking it into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear.  Yellowish ear wax
is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet probably has
ear mites, which should be taken care of.

Fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water.  It should
feel comfortable on your wrist.  If you want to let your pet play in
the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide
some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of
swimming.

Finally, bathe the ferret.  Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears
baby shampoo works fine too.  Wet the ferret completely, either in one
half of a double sink or in a tub.  Lather her from head to tail;
don't worry about her eyes if you're using a no-tears shampoo.  Our
ferrets both start to struggle at this point, which seems to be
because they don't like hanging in midair while being washed.  We let
them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being
washed, which calms them.  Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm
running water.

Drying a dripping ferret can be a lot of fun or a real hassle,
depending on your own preference.  I find it's easiest to keep the
ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one
hand while drying her with the other.  You could also put your ferret
on the floor in a towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think
you're playing a rowdy game of tousle and try to run away (see
question 5.6).  Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm
with a dry towel to roll in and she'll finish the job, although it's
been mentioned that a damp ferret seems to lose all sense of judgment,
suddenly thinking that walls, cage floors, milk cartons, and
everything -except- the towel must be remarkably water-absorbent.  You
can also try using a hair dryer on its coolest setting, but many
ferrets won't stand for that.

[begin SC]
When cleaning ears our own preferences depend on the ear health and
sensitivity, but baby oil, or slightly warm water, or Tresaderm can
also be used.  Baby oil is also handy for "bathing" an ill or elderly
ferret with weak skin without using water, or removing accidents stuck
in fur.

4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?

[begin PG]
Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around,
roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk
on a leash.  To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for
instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when
she falls into it, shout, "No!"  The combination of the fall, the
noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to
staying on.  Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn
quickly.

The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you
teach her.  Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret
to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile.  One idea for
getting your ferret's attention is to take away her food at night,
then teach the trick first thing in the morning, using breakfast as a
reward.  Don't take away the water, though; with their fast metabolisms,
ferrets can get dehydrated quickly.

Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of
it, or simply to please you.  Usually there must be some kind of
reward expected, though that could be anything from a lick of
Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching.

4.8> Do ferrets travel well?

[begin PG]
Around town: Ferrets love going places.  You can fix up a shoulder bag
with a litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry
them with you wherever they're welcome.

Automobile travel: Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although
being closed up in a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, as they
scratch incessantly to get out.  Keeping them loose in the car is not
recommended, since they could get under the driver's feet or through
some undetected hole into the engine compartment or onto the road.
Since water dishes and bottles don't work well in a bouncy car,
remember to stop and give them a chance to drink every hour or two.

Airplane travel: Some airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in
under-seat cat carriers.  There's almost always an additional charge.
Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not generally recommended,
largely due to problems people have had with temperature, pressure and
general handling of pets who travel this way.  Several people have
been able to sneak their ferrets aboard aircraft by taking them
through the security checks hidden in bulky coats, then transferring
them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I have no experience with
that.

Hotels: Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to
call ahead and make sure.

Legality: You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any
areas you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that
ferrets are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets
have had, just in case.

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5. *** Things ferrets say and do ***

5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes something?

[begin MW]
If he spends more than a few minutes playing with it (toys), if he
"demands" another bite or grabs it from you (food), if he sits still
for more than a few seconds (petting).  Our ferrets have favorite
toys, favorite foods and favorite scratching places.  Our ferrets
"chuckle" when they are having fun.

5.2> My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?

[begin PG]
Generally, yes.  Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons.  First,
they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body
temperatures.  Second, they shake or quiver when excited or
frightened.  For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since
everything is new and interesting.  For older ferrets, a bath or even
a good scolding could prompt trembling.

If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make
sure there's no cold draft around.  (Ferrets can live fine outdoors,
but indoor lighting can cause their winter coats not to come in until
long after it's gotten cold enough outside to need one.)  If that's
not the problem, check with a vet.

5.3> Help!  My ferret is going bald!

[begin MW]
Can you spell shedding?  Seasonal coat change [in the fall and spring]
is normal, excessive baldness is not.  Good nutrition is key.  If you
are feeding them a high quality food, you shouldn't have too much
trouble.  We have had experience with "tail rash" in our pets where
they lost a lot of their hair on their tails.  The vet gave us a
moisturizing spray for their skin, and at one point, Dimetapp, but I
think it was more a matter of waiting it out.

[begin BW]
[The "rat tail" rash which MW describes] is generally regarded as a
consequence of stress, and appears to be more common in intact animals
than neutered ones (the breeding season in itself is a time of great
stress for ferrets.)  The tail can go almost completely bald.  Most
ferrets regrow their hair in 2-4 months, but a small number never do.

[begin PG]
Baldness is also the most noticeable symptom of adrenal lesions in
ferrets (see question 6.2).  If it begins on the tail and progresses
forward, eventually leaving hair only on the head and extremities,
that's almost certainly the problem.  See a vet immediately.  Other
common causes of baldness are a severe ear mite infection or overly
dry skin from, for instance, too much bathing.  Any unexplained hair
loss, especially if severe or not associated with a coat change,
should be checked out quickly.

5.4> Is he really just asleep?

[begin PG]
In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults.  A two- to four-
hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical.  Ferrets
sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they
sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up.  You can
take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're
asleep.  It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and
sit, though.

5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean?

[begin PG]
Clucking, "dooking", or chuckling: Indicates happiness or excitement.
     Often uttered while playing or exploring a new area.
Occasional sneezes: If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd
     sneeze too.  Also, ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their
     chins, and sneezing can be a way of forcing some of the scent out
     so it can be rubbed on something.
Whimpering/whining: Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement
     noise.  It can also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match.
Hissing: Frustration or anger.
Screeching/loud chittering: Extreme fright or pain.  This is your cue
     that it's time to go rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten
     itself into. It can also be a sign of anger.

5.6> What games do ferrets like to play?

[begin PG]
Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and
so forth, with each other or with you.  Ours love to bounce around on
our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack
each other through the throw rugs.

If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your
pants leg, he wants to play.  An appropriate response would be to get
down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a
washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance.

Ferrets like to jump and climb.  They're good at finding complicated
ways up to desks or closet shelves, but not very good at judging
heights.  Be careful about how high your pet can get, since he may try
to jump down.

Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most
inaccessible location possible.  Protect your keys and wallet.

A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with
an arched back.  Clucking is common too.  Dancing into walls or
bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to just bounce off
of such obstacles.

Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing
from side to side and rolling against everything in sight.  Mainly
they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general
excitement from the bath and drying process (see question 4.6) too.

5.7> What else should I probably not worry about?

[begin PG]
Scratching: Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters.  If you
     don't see any fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's
     probably not fleas, so as long as the skin isn't irritated or
     balding don't worry about it.
Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear: This is a normal thing to do,
     especially after a bath.  It helps spread the ferret's scent
     around.

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6. *** Problems to watch for ***

6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?

[begin PG]
NOTE: I am not a veterinarian.  I haven't even owned ferrets very
long.  (Dr. Bruce Williams, denoted here by BW, -is- a vet and ferret
expert.)  The following is by no means a comprehensive list of
symptoms of disease in ferrets.  However, some of the more common
problems are often accompanied by these symptoms.  If you notice one
of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet.

ALSO: Ferrets are small.  While they generally enjoy good health, any
kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in only a day or two, so if
you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.

- Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes,
  limp whiskers, etc.  Symptomatic of a number of problems.  Also see
  question 7.2.

- Lack of bowel movement.  If your ferret has gone longer than usual
  without using the litter pan (or some other corner) productively,
  he may have an intestinal blockage.  Certainly by the time it's been
  24 hours you should go to the vet immediately.  Note that a ferret
  can continue to defecate for as much as a day even with a blockage,
  since there's still waste in the intestines to be eliminated.

  [begin BW]
  More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a
  lack of food intake for some other reason.

  Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day.
  Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a
  little loose.  Also look for string-like stools.  Ferrets with
  intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very thin-
  like a pencil lead.  But adequate ferret-proofing [see question 4.1]
  is much more important than stool-watching.

- A swollen abdomen.  Bloating may come from many problems such as
  heart disease, splenic enlargement, or even just fat animals.

  [begin PG]
- A painful abdomen.  Could be any of several disorders, but the most
  common is an intestinal blockage, caused by eating something
  indigestible such as a sponge or an eraser.  Not all blockages cause
  abdominal pain, though.  Also see question 7.2.

- Change in "bathroom" habits.  Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan
  or missing a lot more than usual, signs of discomfort or distress
  while using a pan, or any funny color or texture in the feces or
  urine could be a sign of any of a number of problems.

  [begin BW]
  Changes in bathroom habits, in my experience, are most commonly seen
  with a change in the environment, which causes stress to the animal.

  [begin PG]
- Lumps in the body or feet.  These are most often associated with
  tumors, which may be benign or cancerous.  They can also be a sign
  of an infection, or the result of dietary problems.  Have any
  swelling or lump checked out.  (See question 6.2 about vaccine
  reactions.)

- Difficulty using the hind feet, lack of movement, awkward gait.
  Most often a sign of an adrenal or pancreatic tumor, or arthritis,
  in older ferrets.  Could also be an injured back, the result of
  having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the like.
  Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily injured.

  [begin BW]
  This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the most
  common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the spinal cord
  or those innervating the legs.  In most of these cases, there is
  nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in paralysis, just
  variable amounts of weakness.

  [begin PG]
- Overheating.  Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all.
  They (like any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're
  keeping them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of
  water in summer.  Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is
  probably also a bit risky.

  [begin BW]
  Temperatures as low as in the eighties can be life-threatening to
  ferrets without shade or water.

  [begin PG]
- Loose skin and dull eyes.  Generally caused by dehydration, which is
  serious in such a small animal.

- Unexplained hair loss.  Not the usual seasonal shedding, which
  should happen twice a year (but the times may vary due to indoor
  lighting conditions), but a severe loss, especially if more than the
  tail is affected.  Also see questions 5.3 and 7.2.

- Seizures.  It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of
  problem.  Most often the result of islet cell tumors in the pancreas
  causing extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes
  too.  See question 7.2.

- Diarrhea or vomiting.  Both of these are serious, since ferrets are
  easily dehydrated.  Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which
  contain lactose that ferrets do not tolerate, or by a number of
  diseases.  Ferrets do not generally vomit unless they're rather ill,
  although during shedding season they may "spit up" a bit due to hair
  in the throat.  (See question 3.5 on helping to prevent hairballs.)

- Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy.  Yes, ferrets catch
  human colds and flu.  They'll generally rest and drink a lot.  A
  visit to the vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the
  cold looks bad or lasts more than a few days.

  [begin BW]
- Tooth grinding.  Almost exclusively abdominal pain.  #1 cause -
  stress-associated gastric ulcers.

6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets?

[begin PG]
Once again, I'm not a vet or even a ferret expert, but here's a list
of several of the most common medical problems in ferrets, especially
older ones.  (Dr. Bruce Williams, denoted here as BW, -is- a vet and
ferret expert.)

* Intestinal blockages.  Caused by eating something indigestible, such
as an eraser, a rubber band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized
hairball (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck.  Symptoms may
include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation,
bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others.  Blockages may
occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through the
lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move around
and produce only intermittent symptoms.  Laxatone or a similar
hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this (see question 3.5).
Treatment is surgery, to remove the blockage.

* Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands.  Symptoms vary, including
hair loss spreading from the base of the tail forward (also see
question 5.3), lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of coordination in
the hindquarters.  Often, however, a tumor will be present without
showing any signs at all, so if your ferret is going in for any
surgery, the vet should take a look at the adrenal glands as well (if
time permits -- ferrets lose body heat very quickly in surgery).  The
left gland seems to be affected more often than the right.

* Islet cell tumors.  These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in
the pancreas.  Their main effect is a drop in the blood sugar level,
and they are also common enough in older ferrets, even without
symptoms, that if your pet is having surgery for something else, a
quick check is worthwhile.  Symptoms include lethargy and loss of
appetite; in extreme cases seizures may be also occur.  If you're more
than a minute from your vet and your ferret has a low enough blood
sugar level to be having seizures, call the vet and ask if you should
rub Karo (corn sugar) syrup on your pet's gums to raise it.

[begin BW]
* Lymphosarcoma.  Lymphosarcoma is the most common type of cancer in
the ferret.  It is a tumor of a certain type of white blood cell, and
the most common clinical sign is enlargement of the lymph nodes.  It
may also arise in the abdomen, where lymph nodes can only be felt with
reasonable accuracy by your veterinarian.  It is most commonly seen in
older animals from 4-6 years of age, although animals as young as a
year old can have it.  While animals initially respond well to
chemotherapy, they usually relapse in 2 months or less, and generally
are put to sleep at this time.  The prognosis for any ferret with
lymphosarcoma is poor.

* Gastric ulcers.  Ferrets may develop gastric ulcers in time o
stress.  Clinical signs are dark, tarry stools, a lack of appetite,
and grinding of the teeth.  It can be treated by your vet, but it
takes 3-4 weeks to recover from this condition.  You must first remove
the stress from the animals environment before any recovery can begin.
These animals also need good nursing care to get them back on their
food.  With proper care - recovery rates are over 90%.

* Cutaneous vaccine reactions.  Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies
or other vaccines may, over a period of weeks, cause a hard lump at
the site of vaccination [see question 6.2 about other lumps].  The
lump simply consists of a large area of inflammation and most commonly
are seen around the neck.  The lumps can be removed, and generally do
not cause a major problem for your pet.  Similar lesions may be seen
in vaccinated dogs and cats.

* Helicobacter mustelae infection.  Infection of the stomach lining by
a bacteria, Helicobacter mustelae is extremely common in ferrets.
Animals with longstanding infections (generally older animals), may
develop gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease
acid production in the stomach.  Signs of a problem include repetitive
vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see above).
Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in hand - the
relationship between infection and gastric ulcer formation has not
been totally worked out, although there is currently a lot of research
in this area.  Helicobacter infection can be cured with administration
of antibiotic and a gastric coating agent over a period of weeks.

6.3> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of them?

[begin PG]
Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or
their eggs on your shoes or clothing.

There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of
fleas and ticks.  It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets.
In general, though, most products which are safe for use on kittens
are safe for ferrets.  Products containing pyrethins are okay, but
don't use anything containing organophosphates or carbamate.  Be
especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much safer.

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7. *** Where to get more information ***

7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area?

[begin PG]
An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, and organizations is
maintained by STAR*Ferrets and is available by email from a list
server.  Send email to
                   [e-mail]
with the line
SEND FERRET DATABASE
in the body.  Note that the file is rather long, around 44K, which may
give some mailers problems.

7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list?

[begin PG]
The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended.  To subscribe
to the FML, send a note to its moderator, Chris Lewis, at
                 [e-mail]
and ask to be added.  You'll get a note back detailing policies and
such and explaining how to send letters to the list.

7.3> Is there any other information available on-line?

[begin PG]
Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroup
rec.pets.  The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" is distributed there,
as well.  Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and
discussions, as does the Compuserve Small Mammals forum.

7.4> What are some of the books available?

[begin PG]
Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief
treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues.
Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually
available in pet stores.  Two of the more popular are

Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton.  Barron's
   Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985.  ISBN 0-8120-2976-3
     A relatively short, but well-written guide.  Not as in-depth as
     some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets.

Ferrets in Your Home, by Dr. Wendy Winsted.  T.F.H. Publications,
   Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990.  ISBN 0-86622-988-4
     Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable.  Includes, for
     instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also
     more expensive.

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8. *** Revision history of this file ***

The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date
at the top.  For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the
version number, but I'll always change the date.

Version 1.1.1 - 3/15/94
  Added section 0.3, copyright and redistribution information

Version 1.1 - 1/28/94
  Revised the top disclaimer and sections 1.2, 1.3, 3.4, 3.6, 3.7,
     4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 5.3, 6.1, and  6.2
  Included comments and corrections from Dr. Williams and others

Version 1.0 - 12/15/93
  The first "release" version, though previous ones were distributed
  Completely reorganized the file
  Edited and added to several sections

Version 0.3 - 12/7/93
Version 0.2 - 11/29/93
Version 0.1 - 11/23/93
  The original version.